Join us at Glossie's Beauty and Wellness Summit from November 11th through 13th in Napa, California. Influential Beauty and Wellness leaders will meet to discuss strategies and pain points, discover innovative tech, and ultimately make valuable business connections through one-on-ones and casual networking. For a limited time, we're offering $200 off with promo code GBS24, No Spaces. Again, that's GBS24 with No Spaces. Go to glossy.co/beautysummit for more information and to secure your past today. Thanks for tuning in to the Glossie Podcast. I'm your host, Jill Manoff, and today I'm sitting down with Felita Harris, a founding board member and now the CEO of Ray's Fashion, a four-year-old nonprofit dedicated to advancing the equity of BIPOC talent in the fashion industry. At a time when DEI initiatives are regressing and investment in BIPOC brands is dropping, Ray's fashion continues to make an impact, including through its Masterclass series, which awards and supports 10 designers each year. This year that includes Friend of Glossie, Charles Harvison. I wanted to get Felita's take on the state of diversity in fashion and the challenges she's experienced in bringing new equity to the industry. I also wanted to inquire about Ray's Fashion's New York Fashion Week plans. Is it important to have a presence in 2024 and why? Felita, hi. How are you? Hi, I'm great. How are you? I'm good. I'm so happy to have you here ahead of Fashion Week. Oh my gosh. We got it in. I know. Is it the calm before the storm? Absolutely. The calm before the storm, but I am so excited. Yes. Oh, I want to jump in there. We'll get into the backstory, but what are the fashion week plans for Vase? Yeah, I know. We will get into it, but there's a lot being planned and I'm so excited. We had an article that came out today in WWD just announcing so many great things and, you know, the designers that are being showcased. So yeah, everyone is excited and we can't wait to see everyone. Oh my gosh. We can't wait to be there with you. I love Fashion Week. My gosh. What were you doing before Vase? Oh my gosh. Yeah. Before Vase, I began my career in retail, working in sales and management at Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom. From there, I transitioned into corporate. I like to call it the ivory tower where I spent most of my career in wholesale and international franchise partnerships. I served as the senior vice president of global wholesale and franchise partnerships with Donna Karen collection under LVMH. I later took on the role of senior vice president with Leela Rose and I held the position of executive executive vice president of wholesale and retail with Alexander Wang. I also developed an app. I took on an entrepreneurial role and developed an app that empowered frontline sales teams with comprehensive product knowledge. And that was really fun just getting, you know, to understand the plight of entrepreneurs. However, as the pandemic unfolded and the murder of George Floyd really took priority in all of our lives, I felt a deep need to shift my focus to a more purpose driven path. And that is really what led me to join raise fashion as a co-founder. So amazing. So there was a lot of like-mindedness happening at that point. Like, was it any problem finding co-founders or people? I'm sure that there was a lot of discussion about like, what do we need to do now? Like, who did you find? Who were your co-founders? What was the conversation that started the whole thing? Yeah, you know, after spending years in the corporate ranks of the fashion industry, I can say for myself, I wanted to use my experience to disrupt the stark realities and the disparities that designers of color were facing. Particularly, particularly at that time in retail, not getting the opportunities to distribute their product less than 1% of creative director roles and, you know, executives having opportunities. And that was my challenge and I wanted to do something about that. I think my co-founders were facing the realities that they were sitting in positions and had a responsibility and the authority to do something about that. And so together we decided to create a network where pro bono advisory support could foster the type of access and resources necessary for these designers. Yes, you have this amazing retail background, wholesale partnerships. I'm sure you see exactly what's happening on the retail floor. That's just one piece of the pie in terms of getting designers brands into stores. Tell me about all that raise is focused on. There's mentorship, there's money. Yeah, who doesn't need money, but talk us through it. Yeah, well, I'll start with our mission. You know, we are 501 C three, providing pro bono advisory support grant resources to BIPOC brands. And we also provide internships to HBCU's our overarching mission is to systematically break down the barriers that exist through collaboratively sharing our time, our network connections to empowering these individuals and keeping them inspired to pursue their career. And so if you imagine that represented individuals have an ecosystem, they can, you know, network, receive financial opportunities, distribute their products with a certain level of ease that underrepresented talent. We do not have the same opportunities. And so we are building a pro bono and operational ecosystem that services the voices of underrepresented often BIPOC talent. They do not. Our business model evolves that practice through a series of master classes. And these are introductions and networking events that include eight weeks of very detailed business focused master classes taught by experts from the industry that want to give back. These are 35 sessions, where these designers that are literally selected by a panel of 13 judges. These, these designers are receiving this information from supply chain, marketing PR brand mission vision, vision, vision values. This is information that they can put back into their business and scale. And we're also providing grants so the designers can go through that process. So, you know, for us, it's about creating this environment where designers can receive the information they need, the networking and resources. That are required to scale and they're doing it in a community that wants to embrace the change and inclusion that is necessary to evolve the fashion industry. Yes. How many designers have you worked with now and tell me about your like a great success story that you would want to share. You want to focus on what I'm sure there are plenty. Yeah, you know, four years. Yeah. And four years, hundreds. And I do mean that when we started raise fashion. If you applied for a pro bono advisory session, we matched you with an advisor. We have become more disciplined in our process through master classes and that is application based. And so through the masterclass program, we have 18 designers that have all received $15,000 and grants, and they have graduated from the program. Those designers have, I would say, graduated from the program and been, they have now been accepted into program, such as the LVMH prize. Fashion, trust, CFDA emerging designer of the year they have, they have moved on to other incredible programs that continue to accelerate accelerate their growth as well. Success stories, many, you know, Rachel Scott, Dia team, I was just, you know, with her the other day and we were thinking about when we first met and her, where her business was in terms of revenue, versus where it is. Now it's two and a half the size that it was when we first met and she was before she started the masterclass. That is a success story. I think about Charles Harbison when we met two and a half years ago before he, you know, started before he relaunched his business. Well, before he, you know, went through the masterclass program, and now he is selling his product at Bergdorf, you know, in the windows on Fifth Avenue. I think about designers like Awet New York, who now has a store on Bond Street. So there are many, many success stories where raised fashion has definitely contributed to the success in terms of business acumen understanding of the industry. Fostering support community. And I would say just the home, right, just having a place that designers can come back to when they need to access the support and resources needed to unlock the skills so that they can keep keep scaling their business. And that's important. Well, I want to get into like the state of diversity and fashion and equity and fashion and really like if there are more opportunities now and maybe I don't think so. Unfortunately, but yeah, has your program evolved? Let's start there. Has the program evolved? Yes, I mean, I would say, I could talk about the things we're, we're really proud of evolving, right? We are proud of how we've evolved and remained in lockstep with the designer community. They always keep coming back to raise because we understand that they are at the heart of everything we do. We are proud of how thoughtful we are at scaling the master classes because business changes. The industry is constantly moving. I mean, we think about sustainability. We're thinking about AI tools and how our designers need to understand how to implement that change every day. We're proud of the partnerships that have evolved, and how we think through not only our own process, but what our organizations are looking for as they make long term commitments in the areas of diversity, equity, and inclusion. And I think we are also looking at our community and how we create and embrace a culture of openness towards learning and advocacy. It's, it works both ways. We are inviting more advisors into our community. And so that also comes with our board and our community understanding education around diversity and inclusion. We're excited of about our advisors. We have more companies signing up to become advisors, bringing their executives to the table. And I think we're proud of how we have responsibly built this organization to consistently make the impact we want to make on this industry. Yes. Well, advancing equity in the industry. It's no easy feat. Like, what can you tell me about the challenges that what is not a challenge. Like where do you start? Has it become more challenging, would you say? I mean, one of the biggest challenges I've encountered is advancing equity for BIPOC designers. There is a systematic lack of access to resources and networks. Many of these designers are incredibly talented, but they don't have the same opportunities to connect with retailers, investors, or the media that others might have. And that creates a significant barrier to scaling their business, building the visibility and gaining the distribution opportunities. And that is what we are here for. But it is still a big challenge. Another challenge is overcoming the deep bias issues in the industry. And while we've made big process of progress, there's still resistance to embracing diversity. That we're still even having the conversation about the relevancy of diversity, equity, inclusion, and belonging blows my mind. It's like we're still talking about it. The fact that we're talking about, you know, their challenges in leadership roles for BIPOC individuals that are qualified blows my mind. But the fact is that that is an issue and we need to get beyond it. The other challenge that we faced and still face is having the right financial resources in place designers are still struggling with long term funding and capital to grow their business. And yes, we have made strides. I just talked about how many designers we have successfully put through our program, 18 designers, $15,000 each. That's meaningful, but it's not enough to run a business. And there needs to be continued support and a sustained financial infrastructure. It is unacceptable that we have not addressed that in a meaningful way. And yet we understand that diverse American designers are needed on, you know, needed in our system, and we have not addressed that. That's for sure. Did other corporations, organizations that are of the same mindset, working toward equity, for instance, like the 15% pledge? Is there any, like, is there any working together? I mean, you guys, maybe it's better to not because you're all providing individual support that is needed, the more support, the better, I guess, like, why combine? Let's spread it out. But anyway, is there any working together among like minded companies in this area? I mean, I think we all work together. We certainly all stay in touch. We all, you know, call each other and ensure that our efforts are meaningful to the population and stakeholders that we serve. And those are the designers and creatives. And they are all needed, you know, so I don't think that pooling us together under one umbrella is the answer because we all have, it's like having one grocery store, like, no, I just like, well, no. People, people need, like, that is actually unnecessary. I think we all have our own goals individually as organizations, as companies, but we all definitely keep each other abreast of the needs of the community. And we wholeheartedly support each other and wish each other well, for sure. Are you a brand in the fashion or luxury industry? The Glossier Fashion and Luxury Awards provide the opportunity to recognize your company's work with categories, including Sustainable Brand of the Year, Best Collaboration, Best Experiential Marketing Activation, and more. Don't miss the chance to be recognized alongside past winners from Good American, Skims, and Gucci. Learn more and start your entry at glossy.co/awards/fashion. We hear things like things that have happened very recently, the end of affirmative action and college admissions. You know, we're taking steps forward, many steps back in various areas of the world, not necessarily fashion, but do, I guess, rulings such as those have an impact on what you do, or even how you see your work. So, you know, I would say while the recent rulings on affirmative action in college admissions haven't had a direct impact on our day to day work at raised fashion, or our internship program with HBCUs. They do highlight the broader challenges we face in creating equitable opportunities for BIPOC individuals in the fashion industry. The decision serves as a reminder of how crucial our mission is to ensure that underrepresented designers have access to the same resources opportunities and networks that are often unavailable to them and that goes back to what I was saying. Earlier, it's, it just again, blows my mind that we're still having this conversation and still having this fight. Not even four years later, but hundreds of years later. And here we are. It's still the question of freedom, the question of equity, the question of fairness, the question of sameness. It's just, you know, yeah, so that does it affect our day to day. We are focused on HBCUs. That is the opportunity HBCU students. They deserve the opportunity to work in this industry with equitable pay equitable opportunities to aspire to have these roles senior level roles in in the fashion industry and that is our work. Nice. Through HBCUs, you're probably working with the schools directly when it comes to like recruiting folks for your masterclass or like getting the word out to entry or attracting the right people and giving them opportunity. How do they find out or how do you connect with your masterclass recipients or honorees. Yeah, it's a mix. It's a for masterclass. We definitely post socially. We also ask the designers, you know, creatives definitely live and socialize in a community with creatives and so we respect their opinion. So we do love referrals. We get a lot of DMS. And we love DMS. And so, yeah, but you know, it's absolutely through the application that we qualify the applicants and through our panel. Our panel is extremely diverse, not, you know, culturally diverse, as well as industry diverse. And so that is how you are judged and qualified. Amazing. Speaking of collaboration. Is there any hand to hand, working hand in hand with like the CFDA. Do you see support from the, I guess. I don't know, old school authority is on on the fashion system. Yeah. Anyway, yeah, absolutely. You know, you would be surprised how much we keep each other abreast of programming, how much we share with our community. Different opportunities that are available. Absolutely. Again, you know, the resources are what they are when you are very specific in your mission, but I will say that we are all very supportive of the talent that needs to be fostered in this industry. We understand, we understand the mission. Let me say that we all understand the mission. And we are all very supportive. We attend each other's events. And, you know, you will see the same talent in various incubators and accelerator programs. And I think it's because of the referral and that we're all really trying to watch and support talent once they're at a specific level to ensure that they can sustain that growth. And so, yeah, very supportive. Yeah, there's a clear path on to the next, yeah, support them all the way through it. That sounds great. What would you tell me about the current, current prioritization of DEI in fashion? Like, it's a question. Again, why are we having this conversation because it's kind of apparent that it's not great. Yeah, but improving, maybe it was improving and we come in waves. I feel like, what do you think? I think it depends on the organization. We've definitely seen some organizations stay the course, or even deepen their commitments. However, overall, there has been a noticeable deep prioritization, as though DEI is being treated like a trend, or I will say a seasonal handbag. But I think we must remember that people's culture, ethnicity, gender, sexual and sexual orientation are not trends. They are fundamental to who they are and how they show up. And we need to prioritize people over business. And I know it's like, really, Felita, but yeah, really, we need to think about people. And I really miss that time. When the world was shut down and we really thought about people, when we had to think about people, right, it's crucial to reengage and develop a sustainable path for how we will continue investing in infrastructure and resources that support underrepresented communities. We don't want to lose sight of that. For sure. What can you tell me about your masterclass? I did not read the women's word daily article. Oh, you have to read it. You have to read it. I was like, it just came out today, Felita. I know. I got to know these things. No, I can tell you. What's great about it? So the masterclass is eight week masterclass for designers that are selected for the brand fellowship program where each designer receives $15,000 in grants. And again, the designers are selected through a, it's a competitive application process. They are evaluated by a panel of 13 judges represented representing a diverse industry such as tech, media, hospitality and fashion. We cover many topics, brand mission, vision, values, defining and articulating your brand's core identity. I think that's probably one of my favorite classes. Financial literacy, supply chain management and legal insights. It's all truly inspiring. It's designed to engage the designer. They're able to ask questions of the experts. So imagine you sitting with someone from Apple or, you know, a C suite executive from burgdorff. Or someone from M&T bank, you're literally immersed for eight weeks in these sessions virtually and in person and you're able to ask questions about your business or hear other designers ask questions about their business and problem solve. And you're also getting grant funding while you go through this process. So, you know, there are some accelerator or incubator programs that will give you that information, but you still have to log off and get to work. And you do that, you do that here, but there's some type of financial ease around it. We're really excited about that. The other aspect of the masterclass that I really love is every expert or panelists, they are willing to engage offline. So the designers often foster their own relationships with each other, the experts, they're building their own supportive resources and ecosystem for the contact contacts that they need. And that's really necessary in building their own business. So valuable. Now tell me about fashion week, like is it important to be at fashion week as it is to be at burgdorff wherever I know it's so important to be a fashion week. I mean, our presence raises presence at fashion week is so important. One is one of the most influential events in the world and it's an essential essential platform for us to showcase the talent of BIPOC designers and elevate their visibility. And, you know, the reason that we decided to be a part of New York Fashion Week is to help remove the significant financial hurdle hurdle that comes with that. We invite designers, we have 28 designers we've invited this year. And we remove the cost there's no cost to participate with race fashion. So there's significant support there. We're inviting the industry editors press retailers fashion enthusiasts to come meet these designers here their stories in an effort to potentially, you know, open up media opportunities distribution opportunities revenue. So it is significant New York Fashion Week attracts industry leaders from around the world. So we're providing an opportunity for our designers to connect with influential figures, potential collaborators, and business partners. And these connections can open doors to new opportunities that can change the trajectory of their business. Life changing. I've heard numbers everywhere from $100,000 for a show to a million, like it's somewhere in there. And, you know, and I will just say, we are fortunate and grateful to have incredible partners this year. We have Abercrombie Victoria's Secret, Moet, Hennessy, Makeup Forever, Gorgie Virgin Hotel, just like incredible partners who and more, who have just really, you know, shown incredible support and helping to activate at the house of sound. We're putting on this incredible event and those sponsors are the reason we can provide the space. They're the reason that we can showcase this incredible opportunity for the designers and, and, you know, be able to, to provide this, this time for them this opportunity. So, great. What are your long term goals for the company? Well, long term, you know, our goal is to continue building this truly unique and special, one of a kind nonprofit. And I think if you ask any designer that's been a part of what we have built, they will tell you that it's different at race. We are rooted in understanding that the designer is the reason that we are here and the reason that we need to continue creating equitable opportunities. We are focused on scaling what we do best and that is uniting brands, advisors and companies that believe that DEI diversity, equity, inclusion and belonging is non negotiable. People are non negotiable. We will continue reaching talent prepared, ready talent that need that visibility on a global scale that we will continue doing that. We will continue expanding our educational programs. We plan to grow the master classes, different workshops, and ensuring that designers receive specialized training in areas like sustainability, technology and other vital aspects of the fashion business. We have plans to enhance our partnerships and collaborations. That is essential to what we do, obviously fundraising is very important to how we sustain our operations. And I would say we are committed to fostering more spaces, our events and compass connectivity. And so allowing these designers to engage with the broader fashion industry is absolutely what we want to do more of. We can expect some raise. So exciting, two quick questions considering your retail background and what you are doing for these designers and brands. Would you say it is such an evolving space and I hear digital marketing is so expensive so the retailer is as important as ever for awareness and basically getting your brand out there. I think that the selling through a retailer getting into a store that's crucial to a brand success this day and age or how crucial is landing that that retailer placement. I mean, I think it's crucial I think visibility for your brand is crucial but I think you need to do it responsibly. Having a multi channel distribution strategy, understanding your brand where it needs to showcase and your consumer. Where's your consumer shopping and where does it make sense all of those boxes need to be checked before you really think about your distribution, you know, as you're thinking about your distribution strategy that's those are really my thoughts around that. And then last but not least, I creeped you on Instagram and I think you're wearing Charles Harveson in your profile pic but I would just say, you no doubt have taste. What are you going to be wearing to this to this race New York Fashion Week event. Oh my god well thank you very much that is absolutely Charles Harveson I adore him. I don't know yet I've been, you know, visiting different showrooms but I don't know yet I have some ideas but it will definitely, you know, I'm going to pay pay tribute to one of the, if not multiple designers that are showcasing I love them all. I'm one body so it'll try to do a couple of changes during the day but I honestly I think we have some of the best talent at raised fashion and I'm so proud of all of our designers and it would be an honor to wear any of any of our designer, you know, participating in New York Fashion Week so yes we will wait and see it would be iconic. Thank you for being here looking forward to your preview. Thank you. That's all for this episode. Our theme music is by Otis McDonald. If you liked this episode be sure to share it with someone else you think would. Thanks for listening to the glossy podcast. [Music] (upbeat music)
